I'm becoming a big fan of a lubricant called Maxifilm.

Here's some info on it from checking around

Although they call this an oil, it dries into a film that is supposed to imbed itself into the metal with use. It's what's called a thixotropic material. Basically this means it's a gel that dries so thick it has the properties of a solid, making it similar to a dry film lube when not in use. What makes it different from a dry film lube like moly is that it liquifies to provide lubrication when placed under shearing or sideways pressure and then will re-dry when not in use. It's also a moisture barrier / corrosion inhibitor because of the microscopic film it leaves behind.

Temperature ratings are 1100 deg F intermittent and 600 Deg F continuous. Pressure ratings are pretty high too.

This type of lube seems ideal for firearms, and I stumbled across it quite by accident.

 

The maxifilm does look really good for many home uses. Supposedly a super good penatrating oil that dries and stays put until needed very trick. here is a link to the data sheet.
http://www.royalpurple.com/prod-pdfs/maxfilm-ps.pdf. Its even supposed to be a super rust preventative. Sounds like you could use this on everything. I may have to get some of this.

 

I do not think Royal Purple Maxifilm would a good choice for lubing Marlins.
-You should NEVER use any penetrating oil around ammunition. It kills the primers with embarrassing results.
-Marlins are troubled enough by loose screws. They don't need a product that is advertised to loosen stuck screws.
If you want to use this brand, they make a Royal Purple Synthetic Gun Oil that would be a much better choice.
http://www.royalpurple.com/gun-oil.html

Marlins need very little lubrication. Just a drop of oil occasionally on the moving parts and a wipe down with a good rust-preventing gun oil before you put them away.

I have used 'RustePrufe' as a rust preventing oil for many years and have never had a gun rust.
On semi-autos, I use a drop or two of Break Free CLP on the slide rails.
M.

 

EzOx; wipe down, let dry. Qtip small amount of any good grease on wearing parts, lightly wipe off excess.

 

I have used the Purple Maxx film synthetic lube and it works real good. I also use Breakfree CLP and it works much the same way. Just let it dry and wipe away any excess, kind of like car wax, the film left behind has the dry lube in it. It doesn't have to be wet to be a friction reducer.

Any synthetic oil that is penetrating is a good lube as long as it dries. If it doesn't dry, it will only collect dirt and debris. That is the main problem with firearms out here where it is high and usually dry. DIRT, and it is usually windy, so it makes for a problem with wet lubes, they collect the dirt.

When cleaning my guns, I first disassemble them, then clean with CLP, if I clean the bore I use a good bore cleaning solvent, then run a swab with CLP on it, after everything is covered with CLP or Maxx film, I let is set for a few hours to soak in and dry, then I wipe down all the parts and reassemble using blue lock tite on the threads to prevent screws from backing out. When done assembling I use a soft cloth and spray some Maxx film on it to use as a wipe down after each use. This method has worked great for me and the dried lube stays put for several weeks. If I find I need to add some lube, I just put one drop CLP or Maxx film at the pivot points and bolt slide and wipe off any excess.

I haven't had any problems with dirt sticking or screws backing out as 80hp indicated. As far as penetrating oil on primers, I don't use it on my ammo, only my firearm, and then I don't put it on so as to run all over everything. Over use of a good thing can be as bad or worse than using none at all. And excess oil can run into the wood and discolor the wood. Most all lubes and cleaners have a recommended use and to stray away from their intended use is to invite trouble. So remove excess oil by wiping clean, the dried lube film will stay for a long time.

 

...actually, just a drop or 2 of Mobil1 5w20. It won't cook off and is as good as any other synthetic lube.

 

ATF fluid for mine.

 

I use a bit of high temp. grease on the lever and hammer pivot points (and where the lever fits into the bolt) and Mobil 1 synthetic ATF on anything else that needs oiling, such as the bolt. Dry and dusty is not much of a problem here. Hot and humid is.

 

I have gotten great results using Brownells Action Lube Plus.

First I clean my barrel with a mix of JB Bore Paste and Kroil. Next the action is wiped down just with Kroil and then dried. If my rifle is heavily fouled I will soak it over night in Kroil. I place a thin layer of Lube Plus on all the critical moving parts. The hammer mechanism tends to get a thicker layer. I hunted with my '94 this past Nov at -40C and it functioned as smoothly as though it were well above freezing.